The past week or so has brought winter back to the Central Cascades. We had quite the winter warm up in January. In the last two weeks we started to see more than the trickle of snow we have been getting since the last week of January.

With new snow, my self and a couple co-workers and friends have been getting out into the backcountry surrounding Stevens Pass. I have found this place to have more steep, technical shots than anywhere else I have been. It’s great fun, and a little heart pumping at times.

With new snow brought a round of more avalanche control mornings at the Pass, and an incredibly fun morning with Corey, patroller and fellow “Outward Bounder” from Colorado.

A highlight this past week was skiing Pencil Chute with Jasper, another patroller at Stevens.
At the top while we assed the snow pack, and cut the cornice I thought to my self, I have not skied anything this steep and narrow in a while, 58 degree pitch(?) and about 6-8 feet wide at the chokes. We both talked about the conditions and decided it was good to go. Needless to say it was more fun than a barrel of monkeys!

Myself and Jay had a bit of fun in the side country around Stevens Pass today. From the Outer-limits Road on the backside of the ski area, we skinned up towards Christmas Bowl. Getting some stellar turns in 8-12″ of light powder. While there was a pronounced rain crust from earlier in the week, the layers underneath felt progressively denser.
Next, we cruised up to the top of the Fleur de Lis. Conditions are less than desirable in the Fleur de Lis, you might bring crampons and ice tools. The south facing aspects today were becoming quite affected by the sun. Everywhere else on North aspects is superb.

Go get it!

Really excited to share the first in a multipart series, a love affair. The series explores the difference between place and space, and the connection we each form to the places we visit. Asking climbers what it is about the community, culture, climbing, and raw beauty that draws them back again, and again. A look into the shared experience within all facets of the mountaineering community.

Watch the first episode bellow or at vimeo.com

a love affair – indian creek from Bryan Hendrick on Vimeo.

Over the past month I have been wondering why it is place can become so special. A friend of mine, Jeff Rose, at a staff training for COBS during the spring presented a neat perspective on the difference between place and space. This fall I got the idea to try and explore that difference in the mountaineering community. What is it about the places we visit, not just the space. What happens in the place of Indian Creek that keeps us coming back year after year.

To do this I thought it might be best in the form of a video. Over the next year I hope to continue producing a series of short videos that highlight the places we visit as climbers. And the experience that we all share. The first in the series will be about Indian Creek, UT.

For now, I wanted to share some of the photos I was able to get during my last five day stay in the Creek.

You can see the photos here.

The past few months have been full of excitement. This past summer season with the Colorado Outward Bound School (COBS), was quite busy. I worked two 22-day courses with no time off in between. Followed by a fun one week, Super Youth course with 12-13 year olds. The two 22-day courses took place in the Gore Range of Colorado. One of which started with a five-day rock climbing section in Vedeavoo.

On one course we climbed a new route for COBS, a named the Couloir Valkyries Way. In wrapping up each course this summer, it was amazing as ever to hear what impact took place for each student, and the personal growth they had from start to finish.

While the summer was full of shared adventures and learning, I thought it would be best to post the photos I took, to share a little of the magic and fun.

Yesterday, I left for California. I will be working with Naturalists at Large over the month of September. In the coming month I hope to climb in my off time and take advantage of the quality climbing in Northern half of the state.

For the last several weeks I have been running around Colorado and Utah, with Adam Fisher. We managed to spend a few days in Indian Creek andMoab for the “Circle Up,” Along with the Sangre de Cristo Range in Colorado.

Adam Fisher and myself thought it would be a great idea to take a more direct and thus scenic route to Indian Creek, UT. Driving from Leadville, through Gunnison, Montrose, and Ridgeway. It was a beautiful drive, and could have been more enjoyable than I-70, except that we found the drive to be several hours longer than anticipated. We arrived in the Creek around 11pm. For Adam, this was his first visit to Indian Creek.

While around Indian Creek we managed to get a few classics in;
-Scarface
-South Six Shooter
-Key Hole Flakes

Following the good times in the Creek, we headed North to Moab, to meet up with some great Outward Bound friends for “The Circle Up.” For several days we shared ideas, participated in workshops, and ran the Moab Daily in a number of different rafts, kayaks, and canoes. In the end, it was a great experience that provided an opportunity for us to reconnect and “add new tools to the tool box.”

While in Moab I found a hilarious sticker at Milts Milk Shakes.

In the middle of all this, my brother, David and his girlfriend Logan visited. We had a fun two days. Climbing Turtle Rock in Buena Vist via the Flake route, and rappelling off the head of the turtle. The rest of the time we kicked in BV at K’s, the best milkshake and burger place in Colorado and around the Outward Bound base camp in Leadville.

Most recently, Adam and myself traveled a two hours south to the Sangre de Cristo Range. The range contains beautiful scenery and some of the best alpine routes in the state. Unlike most other craggy peaks in Colorado that are made of Granite, the peaks in the Sangres are mostly composed of Crestone Conglomerate. An amazing rock type to climb on. It provides for unique holds and run out gear placements.

We hiked into South Colony Lakes, from there we found an amazing camp site nestled at the base Crestone Needle in a boulder field. The boulders themselves provided some great problems (routes).

The next day we started early, traveling along “Friday the 13th” ridge line. A 3rd class ridge with fun scrambling and route finding. On the other end, we dropped down into Spanish Creek and headed to the base of “The Prow” on Kit Carson. Adam had been dreaming of climbing the route for several years, so I let him got on the first pitch. Aftwer which the climbing slowly eased up, providing amazing climbing. The route itself proved to require a keen eye for creative gear placements. We pitched out some parts and simul-climbed over easier 5th and 4th class sections. It was great to reach the summit of Kit Carson, especially via “The Prow,” one of the most aesthetic features I have seen in the alpine.

From the summit we had some millage and more vertical gain ahead of us to get back to our camp in South Colony. In the end, it was a full day; traveling off trail the entire time, navigating Friday the 13th ridge, climbing The Prow, and gaining 5000 vertical feet in elevation, and my all-time gear run out of 80′!

The next day we discussed our options for climbing the Ellingwood Ledges route on Crestone Needle. From the opposing ridge line the day before we had spotted ice in the headwall. We thought we might be able to climb around the ice itself, however, a cold front was moving in. With temperatures forecasted in the 20s and wind over 50mph, we decided to head back to Leadville. It snowed the following day.

On our drive back to Leadville we made a stop at the local multi-pitch crag in Buena Vista. Got in a great route up the Davis Face, the “Carter Classic.” Which, unlike the rest of the granite in Buena Vista, the granite composing the Davis Face is a smaller crystalline structure. Providing great climbing, and amazing views across the Arkansas Valley.

Over the next week, my summer season begins with Outward Bound. This weekend we begin our return staff training, which is six days long. After which my first summer course is scheduled to start the following week, a 22 day Rock Camp and Mountaineering Course.

Well the last few days I have been lucky enough to have a solid partner. Adam Fisher came back to Leadville on the 15th of this month, and with my time off in the middle of a course, we have gotten after it. We skied a couple of great lines, and linked up with Adam Steele to check out a new free line in Buena Vista, CO.

On the 21st we parked at the winter gate on Highway 82, just west of Twin Lakes. A few days before, qhile coming over Champion Pass in to Lackawanna Gulch, with an Outward Bound Crew, I saw some Couloirs that we just asking for a little ski love.

After pounding a quick two miles of Highway 82 pavement, we headed up Lackawanna Gulch. The skinning was less than perfect. A freeze-thaw crust had formed on the top layer of snow lower down. For Adam Fisher and myself, our ankles were not fans of this newly formed layer. We continued towards the summit of high point 13,630(?), on the south side of Lackawanna. We encountered varied terrain: snow, grass, and the occasional talus field. Once we reached the summit we discovered  the line that I had spotted a few days earlier, needed a rope for a rap in. We did not have a rope or harnesses with and scouted for a second option to the east. We found an amazing couloir that progressively contained better snow when loosing elevation. By the last pitch down and out, the snow made for fantastic turns on what can only be described as “recycled snow.” Imagine powder that is highly supportable. The ski out Lackawanna was simple, and we quickly found our shoes and began to two mile road hike back to the car.

On April 22nd, Adam and myself met up with Adam Steele at Turtle Rock in Buena Vista. The project Adam Steele had in mind was a line he aided in the Summer of 2011. It consisted of a finger crack in a dihedral, that finishes in a roof to a bulge top out. Great fun. We think the route is in the 5.12b+ range. However, it’s hard to say until one of us climbs it free on lead. Hopefully I’ll have a post on this project mid-summer.

Today, April 23rd, was a full day with a late start. We arrived at the La Plata trail head around 10:15am, headed up the trail around 10:30am. After wandering through a 100 vertical feet of snow-less trail, we began to hit patches of snow, two to three feet in depth. This continued off and on until 1:30pm, when we reached 12,600 feet. At this elevation we had gained the main summit ridge. I finally put on my AT boots and tossed the trail shoes in the pack, we cruised along the flat parts of the ridge, while coming up against some “bonking” on the steeper steps.

When we reached an elevation of 13,000 feet, we were able to skin! From there we ran up the remaining 1,300+ vertical feet. Around 3:50pm we reached the summit of La Plata (14,361′). Having had a number of lengthy breaks on the way up, it was quite appropriate to enjoy the view and eat my Summit Mango.

Heading down was quite welcomed. The two of us, climbed non-stop 4,500 plus vertical feet, and covered  4.25 miles to reach the summit. Adam and myself, skied off the summit and headed down an amazing couloir on the North face. After some beautiful turns down the first 2,400 feet, we skied onto the flats in lower La Plata basin. From here it was a wallow-post-hole on ski party till we finally descended down to 10,200 feet and were able to put our skis on our packs and bushwack back to the La Plata Trail. Overall it was a great day, with a good friend, on some amazing terrain. For both Adam and myself it was the first Colorado 14′er we had skiied off the summit of. In total we went “car-to-car” in sub nine hours.

After months in South America, I returned to Colorado, on March 19th. The previous eight days were a hurried movement north over 7,000 miles. I had to be ready to work on the morning of the 21st of March in Leadville, Colorado; a Backcountry Ski and Ride course, including a AAA Level 1 Avalanche certification, with Outward Bound.

On my journey north I spent a day in Bariloche, revisiting a hostel named Pudu. Fantastic place with a crazy kitten.

I had an additional stop over in Puerto Montt and Santiago de Chile. Both of which brought a new cuisine. I had grown tired of the options in Argentina: Beef, Pasta, and Pizza.

The last day I had in South America was filled with fun, exploration, and eating adventures in Quito, Ecuador.

Upon my return to Colorado, myself and two co-workers began to prepare for our course with Outward Bound. Developing lesson plans, curriculum and logistics for a 9 day backcountry adventure for 16-18 year old students.  By far, our biggest work-load came from developing a AAA Avalanche Level 1 curriculum to meet the AAA standards and the Outward Bound educational outcomes as well. I found it to be a great hybrid, and a exciting project to be apart of!

During the expedition element of the course the students reached the summit of Homestake Peak, 13,209 Feet. Skiing and ridding down the East ridge nearly 2000 vertical feet.

Upon the end of the course, I had a day off before beginning prep for my next course, the spring 30 day Pathfinder. I mainly rested and watched movies. The first half of the course has had its ups and downs, a few students have left, leaving a core group that is highly motivated, with deep interpersonal connections. It has been exciting to see the personal growth and learnings that these students have already experienced.

A few highlights from the course thus far include:
-Raft building initiative
-Solo in the snow. We received nearly 14″ of new snow at the Outward Bound Cabins.
-Summit of Mount Champion via the East ridge.

Mount Champion Summit - Video

Currently, I have five days off from the course. When I rejoin the crew we will head down to Denver for a few days of service in the downtown area.

Happy to report a successful summit attempt on A. Guillaumet on the 22nd of February, with Per Anderson and Tim Halder; the first Patagonia summit for Per, Tim, and myself. The route, commonly known as the Brenner, has multiple variations, during one lead block I choose to take us up the 6c off-width variation. Needless to say great fun, but slow work, as with any off-width. The route offered a good constant mix of easier 5 terrain and thought provoking 6a+ moves. After reaching the top of the main summit ridge we sumil-climbed to the bottom of easier 3rd class terrain, reaching the summit after 100 vertical meters of scrambling. For the descent, we rappelled down the Amy Couloir. Fortunately, minimal ice was encountered while on route.

For myself, the climbing was amazing; requiring a strong tool box of many skills sets used in alpine climbing. The day was one of the bigger climbing days I have had in months, and I am feeling a little sore for the climb as the moment. Still, I am excited for the next climb, although, I am unsure what the objective will be. I do know it will be an objective along the ridge line from Poincenot to Guillaumet.

As we head into the weekend, the high pressure system that has been gracing us with beautiful weather, will deteriorate. The coming week seems to hold one 20 hour window on Tuesday, and precipitation and high-winds the rest of the time. For now, climbing in February my be closed down. However, one can never know with the unpredictable nature of the weather in southern Patagonia.

The last few days Per and myself, made an attempt on Fitz Roy. Unfortunately, I learned that even good weather is not enough in Patagonia. On the south face, rime ice and frozen water from the massive melting that took place in January has filled or lined the sides of almost any climbable crack. A Korean team attempting the Franco-Argentine, took two hours to climb the first pitch, they spent hours cleaning the crack to just get gear placements. Surveying the Californian route with a monocular, it appeared to be the same condition as the Franco-Argentine. At this point, these routes need warm temps and no precipitation.

The approach climb to the Californian route was enjoyable. To reach the La Brecha we hiked 11 miles and gained 7000 vertical feet in eight hours. The line we took up the La Brecha was a fun moderate mix of snow to sixty degrees, ice, rock. To get over the bergschrund, I led an M4 pitch that had some fun unique moves, and a “interesting” anchor at the top. The following pitches were simul-climbing on snow, and two more 30m mixed pitches. Upon reaching the top of the Brecha we were greeted by an amazing view of Cerro Torre.

After spending about two hours discussing the route condition, and getting condition reports on a variety of other routes that started from our location, we jumped in line on on the rappel. And after many rappels, and waiting on the 11 other climbers in front of us, I found myself once again on the glacier listening to California Girls (The Beach Boys) while hiking back to Paso Superior.

Tomorrow, we plan or resting in El Chalten, and get ready to head out once again. This coming week has a five day weather window with warm temperatures, and very low winds. For now a hamburguesa, and cold cervesa to aid in the preparations for the large amount of climbing ahead of us!